GRACIE’S RESTAURANT

Hollywood Glamour Portland-Style

729 SW 15^th Ave Portland (503) 222-2171

 

Perino’s may be gone but old Hollywood glamour still thrives – in Portland of all places.  Hotel Deluxe, which has been on Condé Nast Traveler’s Hot List for 2007 and 2008, pays homage to the bygone era and is home to the elegant Gracie’s Restaurant.  Billie Holiday’s in the air, a chilled martini’s in your hand, and dining is transformed into a seductive conversation with Chef Chris Carriker (23Hoyt, Meriwether’s) and host Bradford Bohrer. 

 

We are informed of a rumor, that the hotel is haunted by the namesake resident ghost, no doubt a smart marketing move, but one that adds tremendously to the romance of this classy restaurant as you watch trains chugging by, throwing intermittent light into the dinning room, and bask in a room with dazzling chandeliers, comfortable chocolate brown booths, latté walls, and oversized vaulted mirrors that stretch the room infinitely.

 

The Amuse Bouche is a ‘suspended soup’ – English pea soup in the form of a mousse ball with mint, olive oil and airy prosciutto served in a soupspoon.  From the Small Plates, the fava bean risotto with prosciutto di Parma, Parmesan, lemon oil and mint is on the caliber of an unforgettable lover.  The ingredients are so well balanced they create a magical dance, reminding us of how a successful dish is not about loading them up, but about attention to their alchemy.  Another good choice is the crab tower, a meaty patty with avocado, tarragon oil, scallions, and served with organic potato ribbons seasoned with shrimp salt and a carved cucumber shot glass with bloody mary.  Or you could opt for the artisan cheese selection with Humboldt blue cheese, apple slices, and almonds.

 

While the entrée section offers a thoughtful variety including an incongruous “T.V. Dinner” of fried chicken and buttermilk mashed potatoes, a Hudson Valley Ranch grilled leg of lamb with local cherry demi-glace and a flake-to-the-touch Alaskan halibut slow-cooked in duck fat and thinly-sliced garlic, the winner is the straightforward Steak n’ Fries.  The medium grilled hangar steak with Dijon-herb butter and house fries is absolutely fantastic and easily became the plate from which all accompanying diners on the table requested a taste.

 

As is expected from any restaurant of Gracie’s caliber, there is also an impressive wine list with selections from California, Washington and around the world.  Of these, the must-have is the ruby colored L’Oratoire, Chateauneuf du Pape FR 04.  This flawless wine with a bouquet of spice, licorice and fruit comes from the Caves des Papes wine company, located in the largest and oldest cellars of the village that was once chosen as a summer residence of the papacy during the 14^th Century.  It’s no wonder that enjoying this wine is a rapturous experience.

 

Finally, whatever you do, do not miss the chance to relish the mint-julep ice cream sandwich for dessert.  Forget the calories, deal with your guilt.  This unforgettable dessert, accompanied by a bowl of thick, luscious whiskey chocolate sauce is worth not just a trip to Gracie’s, but also Portland itself.

 

--  Ghalib Shiraz Dhalla