Ocean and Vine

At Loews Hotel 1700 Ocean Blvd Santa Monica 90401 (310) 458-6700

 

Beachside elegance and fresh seasonal food replace the starchiness of what was once Lavande at the gorgeous Loews in Santa Monica.  Just steps from the beach and boasting incredible views of the pier’s rollercoaster and Ferris wheel, the restaurant maximizes on the setting without feeling the need for pretension.  Walking into the spacious dining room of Ocean and Vine (a nod to the scenery and wine) is like coming into the comfortable living room of a long-time, illustrious friend where good food, laughter and eager conversation abound.

 

The focal point of the room is a cozy fireplace.  Here lingering patrons and those taking their time to a table converge with a glass of wine or the signature raspberry mojitos on an oversized circular sofa that establishes the earth tones of the décor and the communal vibe of the venue.  Canvasses of contemporary art adorn the walls without being obtrusive and two light installations at the end of the room change color to keep the ambiance interesting but it’s clear that the atmosphere here has more to do with the down-to-earth attitude than such adornments.

 

Chef Gregory Foos, who feels it’s downright criminal not to use the fresh produce that’s so abundantly available and does his duty by scouring the Santa Monica farmers’ market regularly, has been at the Santa Monica location for a year now.  There is an inherent challenge to providing good, simple food without the brouhaha associated with the hotel and still stand out in a city that’s overflowing with good eateries.  And let’s not forget that for many, these are hard times when shelling out dollars can force consumers to consider affordable options without the seascapes.  To remedy this, Ocean and Vine has introduced a pre-fixe menu for $28 (not including tax and gratuity) that comes with the choice of an appetizer, a main course and a glass of wine.  The selections sound sumptuous.  While the Black Truffle and Hudson Valley Foie Gras Omelet sounded sinful, we opted for ample pillows of Pacific Lobster Agnolotti in a reduction of Parmesan, truffle oil and tomatoes that overpowered the poor crustacean.  But the Herbed Goat Cheese Stuffed Prawns in buttery orzo and fresh tomato coulis were delicious and more than made up for any seafood craving. The restaurant does carry an inventory of mostly California wines, 12 of which are available by the glass, and on this menu, you can choose from a Tunnel of Elms Chardonnay or Forestville Shiraz.

 

If you decide to choose from the regular menu, which is also delightfully affordable, there are some standout selections.  Steamed Pacific Blue Mussels come in the perfect roasted garlic, lemon and basil broth with grilled bread.  Suffice to say one could easily make a whole meal (and glutton) out of oneself with just this.  The Duck confit and caramelized onion flatbread combines textures and flavors expertly.  The Chef prides himself in working with Rancho Sisquoc in Santa Maria to offer guests Certified Angus Beef and these are also available for the carnivore. 

 

Ocean and Vine gets kudos for an enthusiastic and genuinely hospitable staff.  This includes young Mina at the door, JR, the Manager, who has worked his way up, and our server, Susan who, like the rest of her team understands that making guests feel welcomed is a team effort; one that can be easily ruined by a single slip when it comes to clients demanding more in exchange for their valuable dollar.

 

--Ghalib Dhalla