AMMO

1155 N. Highland Ave. Los Angeles 323-871-2666

 

While affluent, overpriced restaurants will continue to attract patrons in an economic downturn, many might find the excess unaffordable if not entirely vulgar. Considering simpler is not always lesser in terms of quality, gems like Ammo, which started as a catering company in ’92, will continue to deserve the loyalty that can only be earned by a restaurant that is clearly passionate about what it does.

 

Ammo prides itself on “simple” dinning which is reflected in everything from the elegant yet unfussy décor of earthy tones, wood and leather to the refreshingly succinct menu (what’s offered is more important than impressing you with myriad choices that just take up space).  And the best part is that unlike many eateries where entrees disappoint after stellar starters, the full experience here is rewarding.  Chef and owner, Amy Sweeney uses only the best seasonal ingredients from California farmers to prepare simple though delicious food. 

 

From the Starters, the Grilled Pacific Calamari is deliciously charred and served with Japanese cucumbers and refreshing mint and cilantro. Pair that with the superb lime-kissed Cilantro martini while Corrine Bailey Rae croons over the perfectly modulated stereo and you’ve got a good indication of what’s ahead. The special of the night was a soft shell crab which took all the restraint in the world to keep from looking glutinous.

 

Broccoli on a pizza may not sound exciting but be advised – the pizza with rapini (raab), spring red onions, pancetta, parmigiano Reggiano and chili flakes is quite simply one of those pies that you can’t stop scarfing down. The little menu reveals further delights with a wood oven roasted cod, a signature turkey meatloaf with horseradish mashed potatoes and grilled Niman Ranch hanger steak.

 

A reasonably priced but carefully chosen selection of over a hundred wines from countries including France, California and Italy – at least a dozen of which are served by the glass or half-bottles – are sure to delight the aficionado and can be paired. 

 

-- Ghalib Dhalla