Vinoteque

7469 Melrose Ave, Los Angeles 310-860-6060

 

Melrose, a hotspot for some of the best emerging trends and fashion designers now makes European-style dinning accessible to Angelenos. Co-owner, Gil Ran and Chef/Owner, Joshua Smookler wanted to treat the tapas-trotting denizens of the city to casual food with an elegant twist without subjecting them to the exorbitant price tags and fuss of less intimate, pomp and pageantry eateries. And this becomes apparent from the time you walk in and Gil, forthcoming, refreshingly candid, and proud of his establishment, welcomes you and continues to check in through the evening.

 

As the name suggests, the restaurant pirouettes on the vine and the more than 250 varieties of wines from around the world are artfully displayed in a curved wooden rack that reaches the ceiling in the indoor dinning room where oak wood flooring, exposed light bulbs, and French doors opening up to Melrose Avenue provide a relaxed yet classy, almost New York-ambiance. You can also dine alfresco in the back patio where a burbling fountain, heat lamps and herb garden (used extensively in their dishes) provide a convivial, celebratory vibe whether you’re on a date or wine tasting with friends in the cabana.

 

The personable, well-informed staff is happy to share their picks and do wine pairings although you can always check out the plasma screen to find all the wines that are available by the glass. We must mention the Braised Short Ribs not because we had the chance to try it but because it was sold out and the last of it was delighting the neighboring couple. But it’s always a reason to celebrate when a restaurant can be consistent and everything from the European size plates (appetizers) to the large ones succeed. The crunchy Fried Green Tomatoes with a pat of goat cheese and drizzle of tomato vinaigrette, and the Risotto with reggiano are outstanding. Pair these with the Cornarea Roero Arneis ’05 white from Italy. A trio of hearty Lamb Meatballs stuffed with goat cheese, mint and a tomato chutney are not gamey and also a good choice. From the large plates, try the Duck Breast with sweet corn, pea shoots and pomegranate or Kobe burger but be sure to save room for the best— the lightly sweetened mascarpone panna cotta on a shortbread disc, topped with ginger macerated strawberries and aged balsamic.

 

-- Ghalib Dhalla.