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Luce lights up the night

301 N. Canon Dr. Beverly Hills (310) 275-2900

Yes, it’s up the street from the heavyweights – Mastro’s, Spago – and yet, the new kid on Beverly Hill’s swankiest zip code may not have anything to worry about.

Luce, meaning ‘light’ in Italian (lu-chay) is avante-garde designer Dodd Mitchell’s restrained expression of style.  The circular room that used to be home to On Canon and Avenue is soft, elegant and shows minimal fuss in its trappings.  Slabs of polished black wood take the place of artwork, the room’s metallic-hued ceiling is strapped with polished teak beams and booths are covered in sumptuous olive suede.  At night Luce dances in the candlelight.  Blooms of white, from single tulips arching sensuously on the tables to effusive bouquets of lilies, welcome you and accent a room that successfully conveys the feeling of its namesake.

A prominent ebony bar takes center stage above the dinning room and its prominence may be the space’s only inherent setback as far as public perception is concerned.  After all, one doesn’t want top shelf vodka to take precedence over culinary expertise and consequently be reduced to a watering hole for the idly wealthy.  But even as resident bartender James Lucini shakes up an addictive martini christened after him and which will leave you asking for many more, the seduction continues either under a blanket of stars in the secluded back patio, the front patio which is better suited for daytime, or the elegant candlelit dining room.  Here General Manager, Mason Citarello (Allegria) who oozes natural charm perhaps because he understands the essential principle of a rewarding meal – that rehearsed hospitality is as appetizing as canned foie gras – expresses his genuine delight at seeing you.

Chef Richard Earle, formerly of Towne Restaurant and Sous Chef at Virginia Country Club has created a simple yet impressive array of comfort food with distinct Mediterranean influences and Pacific Rim touches. While the ahi tuna tartare is a popular choice, their special was a Norwegian salmon diced so that it was meaty, mixed with capers and chives in a lemon cucumber sauce, garnished with sour cream tarragon dressing and topped with a quail egg.  This was accompanied by Trimback Riesling , Alsace ’00.  Diver scallops are spicy.  Prepared with pepper crust, celery root, grape tomatoes and mint and served with a creamy chardonnay reduction, they were nicely balanced with Grande Cuvee Fournier Sancerre ‘00.  Chef Earle understands that textures are an integral part of savoring a meal and nowhere is this more evident than in the entrees.  Pacific Sea Bass in a ginger-carrot emulsion is reason to give thanks through the meal and is paired with Stag’s Leap, Napa Valley , Chardonnay ’00.  The exceptional filet mignon is cooked medium rare so that it is perfectly crusty on the outside, meltingly soft inside, and served with a ’01 Merlot from Napa Valley ’s Sterling Vineyards. Order the molten cake in advance since it takes a little while to prepare and don’t pass on the berry cobbler with oatmeal streusel topping and homemade gelato.

In the ancient art of Ayurveda, what you eat, no matter the quality or complexity of the recipe, becomes toxic if the environment in which you ingest is unpleasant.  It goes without saying that when you’re doing Canon Drive , the “my pleasures” roll off tongues like they were the only graspable words in their vocabulary.  But there is a difference.  On some level, perhaps the subconscious, which we have ignored as our eyes fixate on the décor, we can sometimes sense it.  Luce delivers here as well -- with conviviality that is heartfelt and through a staff that doesn’t just twist faces into an acceptable version of a smile or attempt eagerness through clenched teeth.  Here the smiles express a love of people, of food, and the opportunity to fill you with light.