Asia de Cuba

840 Sunset Boulevard, West Hollywood (323) 462-5222

Asia de Cuba and the iconic Mondrian that domiciles it are L.A. landmarks.  Here the uber-chic and A-listers like Mark Wahlberg and Anne Hathaway come to receive legendary host Beatrice Cassamajor's affectionate hospitality, relish Chef Roberts's fusion culinary magic and drink in the city's panoramas with their Lychee Martinis.  So when an establishment like this decides to freshen up their menu, it's not out of fear of losing out to yet another one of those short-lived trendy eateries, but out of a genuine desire to evolve and renew.

Philippe Starck's touches make all the sexy adjectives come alive.  By day, the haven with the massive terra cotta-pot lined patio and crisp white color palette is the signature of California style, a beach house overlooking an infinite sea of dwellings and high rises.  At night, the place bewitches with a view of diamonds against the velvet of night.  Views and sightings aside, the establishment's draw are still the irrefutable charm of its staff that make everyone feel like they've just walked off the red carpet and of course, the food, which is not overlooked in favor of decor, views or any of the more glitzy aspects often relied upon to compensate for its shortcoming. 

If our server Peter is any indication of the infectious passion that the staff feels about this place, then it's inevitable that the experience will live up to expectation, even surpass it.  This is a welcome change from the robotic "my pleasure" spitting androids of other restaurants who have to keep running to the kitchen to answer simple questions and who are exhausted from a day of auditions.  Whether it's general managers Frankie Allison or Danmy Nguyen, or an excited server whose greatest feat, other than his knowledge on the menu, is his enthusiasm for it, the folks here are definitely dedicated.  

The special that night, a Maki Roll has shrimp tempura, avocados, cucumber, grilled asparagus and grilled scallions rolled inside the rice and nori paper, topped with sashimi tuna and drizzled with chimichurri sauce (of Argentine origin) with a touch of parsley.  Although this arrives as a starter, the pleasing portions here can in no way be considered one and you are encouraged to enjoy plates family style.  A sumptuous peppercorn and coconut marinated Chilean sea bass is served over a bed of vegetables, tossed in chimichurri sauce, finished with a jalapeno plum coulis and served with a roasted corn, shitake mushroom and crab meat infused flan.  You wonder how anyone can continue to top what's on your plate.  The good news is the wonders never cease.  Char Sui beef short ribs are sliced medallion style and completely de-boned, finished with a garlic and orange mojo sauce and served with a side of congre tostones (Cuban mixture of black beans and rice layered with twice-fried plantain discs).  And still there is more, the pillowy soft pan seared jumbo sea scallops, 'ropa vieja' of duck and always, always that view.

That this has been and continues to be the spot for those who want to see and be seen is of little surprise.  But it's the fact that it remains consistent in the main reason anyone should step into a restaurant “to be nourished memorably“ is the true cause for celebration.

Ghalib Dhalla.