Asia Food as nirvana

3179 Los Feliz Blvd Los Angeles (323) 906 9498 www.asialosfeliz.com

A jade-colored Buddha illuminated from within, as if basking in its nirvana, welcomes you into this airy, Zen, sushi cum pizzeria and grill where fresh orchids and votives imbedded in mineral rocks dance on crisp tables.  Floor to ceiling windows overlook teeming Loz Feliz Boulevard but from inside this sensually lit restaurant, it's easy to think you're in a posh Westside restaurant sans the attitude.

A sushi bar seats up to eight people and curls into a mini bar where you can eat and enjoy soju concoctions like the subtle Lychee-tini, Blueberry Pie Martini and the impeccable seasonal special, Shooting Star martini with star fruit.  The crowd is diverse "a sprinkling of dates, corporate, fashionistas, girlfriends" each finding a rhythm in the welcoming, convivial restaurant.  Strangers exchange smiles freely across the room, the delight of food dances on the faces of each patron and even waiters not assigned to your table mingle freely, offer suggestions and lend a helping hand.

The sushi bar is backed up and they're out of sea bass.  We prefer to think of this as a good sign "demand being a strong indicator of quality" and when the "sexy" roll from sushi Chef Tom Kim arrives, the results are well, orgasmic.  Shrimp, avocado and cucumber wrapped with spicy tuna and topped with a ring of jalapeno pepper, the offering is bursting with flavor and texture.   The golden brown crab cakes with a trio of aioli are meaty yet airy, the fluffy interior in perfect contrast to the crunchy coating.  Miso Black Cod, highly recommended by our efficient server Andy Chey, flakes to the touch.  Tender, subtly marinated in sito miso and served with mixed salad and pickled ginger, the fish is like a breathy kiss. 

If it's decadence you crave, try the Asia Steak Rosini, a medium rare medallion of filet mignon served with pinot noir sauce and topped with melts-in-your-mouth seared foie gras and truffle.  Elixr-infused dishes and salads such as a stir-fried tofu with peach and herb infused sauce and Chi-Devil salad with berries, and grilled shrimp are a first.  Whatever you do, don't miss the chance to order the Truffle Mac n' Cheese, an aromatic and luxurious combination with five types of cheese, succulent lobster and truffles. The restaurant is also tossing some confetti and celebrating the reopening of the Griffith Park Observatory in the neighborhood by offering a bento box with constellations star maps and a Galaxy cheesecake. 

Considered Chef Visanu Chivacharern's first standout engagement, Asia becomes a canvass for his exciting culinary strokes.  Unafraid to deliver color and boldness, Chivacharern creates with gusto, suggesting food as a journey of the senses.

--GD