KENYA Feel It?

 

A 23-hour journey through London will land you at Nairobi capital’s Jomo Kenyatta Airport.  From there, another short flight, well under an hour on Kenya Airways will take you to Mombasa, the legendary, idyllic island that is linked to the mainland by causeways and a bridge.  This enchanting tropical haven, often pitiably overlooked by tourists hankering for safaris, is the indolent hub of the coast and an essential part of the Kenya experience. 

 

For the most part, the pleasures offered on this lazy island are simple but indelible, much of its charm culled from the warmth and hospitality of the local Swahili culture.  The romantic aspects of this faded, chipping city are also its remarkable archeological nuances as it claims to be at least 2,500 years old as reported in Roman and Egyptian adventure stories. You can walk through the “Old Town,” an intricate lattice of ancient mosques, serpentine lanes, and old Arabic houses overlooking the historic dhow harbor and time stands still.  Stand within the ruins of Fort Jesus, an awe-inspiring reminder of the city’s bloody history through Portuguese mercenaries and Arab rulers, and you can almost hear history wafting in the warm breeze. 

 

Stroll along Moi Avenue, under gigantic tusks, shop for bargains at curio booths, chug down Passion fruit juice from little refreshment stalls, and relish the staple “kheema chapatti” (grilled bread stuffed with spiced ground beef and eggs) and it’s easy to see why Mombasa is a soothing balm for the inundated metropolitan mind.  Mombasa is also home to superb beaches and one of the most beautiful coral reefs in the world (rated in the top three by experienced divers next to Australia’s Barrier Reef and the Red Sea). 

   

While in Mombasa, we stayed at the Whitesands, a world class resort set amongst 22 acres of tropical gardens, swaying palm trees and fish ponds, and perched on the longest seafront on the North Coast.  The beach goes far out at low tide and if you awake early enough, you can take a walk along the coral pools later enveloped by its azure waters upon which traditional dhows bob around with the fresh catch of the day. 

 

Because getting to the safari lodges involved an overnight stay in Nairobi, we enjoyed the cultural glory of the renowned Stanley Hotel, Kenya’s first luxury hotel in 1902 and the playground of luminaries like Ernest Hemingway, Ava Gardner and Clark Gable.  As it enters is second century, the legendary hotel with its Victorian elegance, marble floors, leather furniture and wrought iron fittings deserves homage and for the gym bunnies, comes equipped with an impressive fitness center.  We made sure to participate in the ritual of tea and almond pastries at their famed Thorn Tree Café where a towering acacia tree serves as a center piece and message board for travelers.  After all, this, we were reminded by the staff, is where even Hemingway sipped tea and inspiration and watched the world walk by.

 

Then we bid the city farewell and had to catch a chartered plane to the Laikipia Planes, about an hour’s flight which conjured up the romance of films like Out of Africa and The English Patient.  As the tiny plane glided and occasionally bumped around pillows of clouds, we caught glimpses of elephants and majestic giraffes dotting the endless plains.

 

While traditional safaris have always roped tourists to the Masai Mara, the more discriminating travelers know better.  Opt instead for the private lodges offering unparalleled hospitality and exclusivity.  Why settle?  Instead of being hoarded off in packed Rovers with other camera-armed tourists battling for a shot of the single bored lion, you can go on a private safari.  An experienced guide took just the two of us on a wildlife conservancy that was not only larger than most national parks, but also helps preserve the ecosystem.  Located on the rugged Northern Frontier District, only a few miles away from the equator, are Loisaba and Sabuk, two such prestigious lodges that cater to only a handful of tourists and serve up an intimate safari experience tailored around your needs and desired sightings, be it day or night.

 

We stayed in private cottages facing elusive horizons, sprawling savannas mottled with sunlight, and wild game converging at the watering hole.  Replete with canopied beds, wicker-carpeted walls, tribal batiks, and lounge chairs in your own private viewing deck, the cottages are havens that one actually becomes rather attached to and it’s possible to shed a tear or two upon departure while dramatic oaths to return. Even in the wilderness, amongst the sounds of indigenous birds and nature, you don’t have to worry about comfort.  This is not a camping experience where you are deprived of amenities.  Sure, you may have to shower outdoors, under sparkling blue skies or sleep in a cottage that has just an open balcony between you and the wilderness, but you are made to feel not as if you have been left to nature’s mercy but that sensual Africa has delivered itself unto you.

 

After tea at 4 PM in the den, we took a drive on the plains in the sturdy Land Rover.  As warthogs, zebras, jackals, dik-diks, giraffes, gazelles and finally, the wild cats came into view, we snatched the obligatory shots, but had to remind ourselves that what we were experiencing was something truly special and you don’t want such moments ruined by the compulsion to capture everything on camera.

 

The ritual of sundowners is not just a chance to consider the safari experience and catch your breath at the end of the day, but also to give thanks to the land that has unfurled itself to you.  Sometimes at a river bank and at other times on a precarious hilltop, you enjoy the setting sun with a gin and tonic and picnicked savories.  Atop the plains of Laikipia, we were treated to a 360 degree view of Kenya, fringed only by the silhouette of distant mountains, one of them being Mount Kenya kissing the plumes of white.

 

 

 

STAY

WHITESANDS ($$$ Mombasa; 485926/7/8/9 sarovahotels.com) The 340-room seaside resort was voted the “Best Resort and Golf Hotel in Kenya” at the World Travel Awards.  LOISABA ($$$$$ Nanyuki, Kenya; Loisaba.com +250 (0)62 31072) Serving up unparalleled luxury and safari experience for small intimate groups in a privately managed conservancy.  SABUK ($$$$$ Northern Laikipia Plateau +254 20 603090 chelipeacock.com) Stunning open-plan lodge where you can go river swimming and legendary Safari Guide Simon Evans manages camel assisted walking safaris.

 

EAT

TAMARIND RESTAURANT (Nyali Beach, Mombasa 474600) Legendary seafood restaurant known for its Portuguese-inspired Prawns Piri-Piri and romantic dhow dinner cruises.  SHEHNAI (Fatemi Hse, Maungano St. Mombasa 224801) Has been serving up tasty Indian food for about two decades now.  HASHMI’S (Nyali Beach, Mombasa) Tucked away in a strip mall, you can relish the famous coastal “kheema chapatti” and barbequed prawns here.  ZEN (Kenyatta Avenue, Nairobi +44 171 589 8100) Continental food for those seeking upscale Western ambiance.  CARNIVORE (Langata Road, Nairobi 501775) A paradise for the namesake offering every type of meat imaginable including Zebra and Crocodile.   

 

SEE

FORT JESUS (Mombasa, 472213) Built by the Portuguese in 1593, now a museum reflecting Kenya’s history and invasions.  OLD TOWN (Mombasa) Across from the Fort, walk down the labyrinth-like little Arab town.  TUSKS (Moi Avenue, Mombasa) Erected in 1952 to commemorate the visit of Queen Elizabeth.  MAMBA VILLAGE (Nyali, Kenya) The largest crocodile farm in Africa with over 10,000 crocs in their natural habitat.  NAIROBI NATIONAL MUSEUM (Museum Hill Road, Nairobi 3742131) Famous for its ‘Early Man’ section, testifies to Africa’s claim as the cradle of mankind.

 

FYI

ENTRY REQUIREMENTS: Valid passport and a Visa (good up to 3 months; $50 at Kenyan Embassy, Washington DC, United States: +1 202 387 6101) WHEN TO GO: July and August are best for game viewing, October to January for snorkeling and diving; FARES: Depending on season and point of purchase, competitive internet fares start at about $1,300 round trip. ATM: Standard Charter and Barclays Bank work with cards on the Visa, MasterCard, Plus or Cirrus network to give up to $1000 per day. USEFUL WEBSITES: MagicalKenya.com, visit-kenya.com, mombasaonline.com

 

SPECIAL THANKS: Kartagener & Associates; Sarova Hotels.

 

- Ghalib Dhalla